Sunday, May 20, 2012

DIY LARGE Jewelry Cabinet Part One

Like many women, I have a plethora of jewelry odds and ends tucked her and there.  Mine was getting to the point that I had crammed 2 jewelry boxes, a wall hung necklace holder, half of a free standing jewelry stand and a couple of random other areas full of pieces of jewelry. I was always fighting to untangle necklaces, dig for  bracelets and wondering which little drawer such-n-such might be in.  It was taking up room and frustrating.  Then I thought, "I need a giant wall hung cabinet that can hold ALL my jewelry which I can see just from a glance.  Simple right?  Not so much.  I looked at many stores and online.  Most large jewelry cabinets/chests were $200+ and still were mostly drawers.  I did find a couple  online which were overall the idea I was going for.  This one was nearly $150, but not enough hooks or storage overall.
http://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Armoire-Mirror-Cabinet-Black/dp/B0033J8YIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337210075&sr=8-1
Then I thought this one was cool, but again, not enough space, and not a cabinet, better price at about $60 though.
http://www.amazon.com/Overdoor-Jewelry-Organizer-Bronze-Longstem/dp/B004DYUAXG/ref=pd_sbs_hg_3
I gave up and decided to make my own!

I wanted it to have the following:

*Character
*Color
*MANY hooks
*An earring holder
*A ring holder
*Possibly a couple drawers (did end up with them, after all)

I wanted to use the following:

*A combo of hooks and old drawer pull/ cabinet hardware and "cup" hooks
*Cheap items
*Reclaimed items/re purposed items
* A budget of about $25

The breakdown with costs


Originally, this was going to be made from pre-made laminate shelves that you can get at any DIY place.  I had two short ones and got a couple longer ones from my mom.  This didn't work, because I would have had to cut them and was worried the laminate would rip.  Scratch that idea.

Now, before I go into too much detail, I must say that this project WOULD cost quite a bit more, but I went "shopping" in my parent's garage/house for items to use (they are more than happy to have me take away some "junk").   I also used a few coupons for $5 off your next order coupons for a few of the items I used.

Items I found from "shopping" at my parents:

*Picture frame (used for earring holder)
*Cabinet door (used to be in my room back when I lived there, has been sitting in garage for over 15 years now!)
*Piece of faux wood wall board (used for back on cabinet)
*A couple bags of random cabinet/drawer pulls.  I found a bunch of one type, a few of another to use)
*4 "L" braces (these are used to hold the cabinet together.
*Long square pieces of wood (I cut these down and used them to attach the "hooks" to)
*Random piece of 1x4 wood (used this as the "top" of my drawers)

Things I had:

*Drawers from an existing jewelry box that I used
*Spinning "hook" thing from existing jewelry box.
*Disposable grill topper (this was used for part of the earring holder)
*Rubber gloves (stain application)
*Small picture frame (used on ring holder)
*Teal paint
*Paint brushes, rollers, roller covers, paint roller tray
*Screws
*Fleece (used for ring holder)
*Hot glue/glue gun
*Mini Padlock

Things I bought and costs (approx.):

*Wood.  I went to Home Depot and selected a 16' section of  wood.  I believe it was 1 1/2x6".  This may not be exact, but I think that was the size.  My door is an odd 19"x43", so I had them cut it into the sizes I need (this was free).  The piece of wood was just under $6.
*White latex house paint.  I got outdoor paint.  It didn't much matter, really.  I got a quart at Dollar Daze for $1.50.
* Dark Walnut Minwax stain.  Original price was about $7, I used a $5 off coupon, so I paid about $2.
*Poly Acrylic semi gloss Minwax clear coat.  Original price was about $5, again I had a $5 off coupon, so this was free.
*2 (more) sets of "L" brackets, they were about $1.50 each,   and 1 sanding block, which was about $4.I used another $5 coupon for these as well so this cost about $2.
*White calk, this is to attach the earring and ring holders.  On clearance for $1.79.
*Pack of white "cup" hooks, $5 but used my (last) $5 off coupon, so free.
*2 packs of foam hair rollers and small wood box, $1 each at Dollar Tree. (Used for ring holder) $3 total.
*2 small cork bulletin boards, $1.09 each. (Used for earring holder) $2.19 total.
*Pack of small clear shelf brackets. (Used for small shelf above drawers) $1
*Small hasp for door.  $2.50
*Eiffel Tower decal for front (still not sure if I like it on there) I bought with a 40% coupon at JoAnn Fabrics, ended up costing I believe $5.

Total Out of Pocket Cost:  Approx $26, Add Decal, $30.

Not too bad and not too much over budget.

NEXT:  DIY Earring Holder!

DIY Earring Holder (Part 2 of DIY Jewelry cabinet)

Part of my large Jewelry cabinet was a DIY earring holder.  This could be done to hang alone as well.  I got ideas from Pinterest.  If you haven't yet checked this site out, do so!!
Anyhow, it came down to two things I wanted for my earring holder- something open to hang earring with ear wire hooks and something that I could "stick" my post style earrings in to.
I had a large frame from my mom's which was the basis of the frame.  I added a mesh-like grill grate to one side and cork board (backed with cardboard) to the other.  In the end, I glued a piece of scrapbook paper to thin cardboard and glued that to the back side.
I think I may have abused some sort of hot glue-usage rule?!?
Apparently I forgot to take photos of this step by step, but I can tell how I did it.
Here is the step by step:

1)  I painted the frame, 3 coats of white paint and two coats of teal accents.
2) I removed the piece of plastic that surrounds the two small bulletin boards, turned them over and made sure they were side by side (edges) flush with one another
3) Used a wide strip of thin cardboard and glued it to the back of the bulletin boards to form one large piece.
4)I cut into the ridges in the side of the bulletin board's cardboard backing and pushed the edge of the grill topper grate into the cut, using hot glue to attach.
5) I turned the frame over and hot glued the earring holder to the frame.
6) Using Mod Podge, I glued a piece of scrapbook paper to a thing piece of cardboard, wait until it is dry then glued it to the back side of the area where the grill topper grate was.
7) Using the plastic strip that surrounds the bulletin board, I cut it to fit over the sections of my earring holder where I joined the pieces.  Hot glued the pieces down.

DONE!



 NEXT- DIY Ring Holder!

DIY Ring Holder (part 3 of DIY Jewelry cabinet)

As with the earring holder, I have found many DIY ideas for ring holders on Pinterest.  This was pretty simple and cost me about $3 to make.  The frame I used was a previous purchase from the same store where I got all the other supplies that I used, so this could be made for $5 or so if you had to buy all the supplies.  I had purchased the stain and clear coat for my cabinet, so that cost isn't included here either.  I also used paint that I had.
Here is how I made it:

Supplies: Picture frame,  2 packs of foam Hair rollers, a small wood box, white fleece, stain, clear coat, paint and LOTS of hot glue!





1)Stain the wood box, let dry and then put a layer of clear coat on top for protection and shine.
2)  Remove plastic rod pieces from foam rollers.  I think I used all but one or two total from the two packs.

3) Determine how many rollers you will need to use by placing them inside the box, you want them snug, but not too snug that they are popping out.  Cut pieces if you need.  I used approx. 2 1/2 rollers glued end to end for each row.
4) Glue roller ends together, squishing the pieces together after glued to help glue hold.

















5)  Cut pieces of fleece the same length as the rollers and large enough to go around the rollers with about 1/4" excess overage overlapping.  Cut enough for all of the roller pieces.

6)Run a line of hot glue along the edge lengthwise on the fleece, carefully glue roller piece down.



7) Roll the fleece around the roller and add another line of glue to edge, securing to the roller.  The roller should be covered with fleece now (except for ends).


8)  Run a line of glue over the section of roller that has the fleece edge (underside) and press into top of wood box, making sure it is snug against top edge of box.  Repeat with remaining roller pieces, making sure to space pieces evenly.  





At this point, your ring holder could be done, but to add a little bit of a more "finished" look, I painted a basic wood frame and hot glued it to the top.  This also helps hide any of the foam ends of the rollers that may be poking through.  




NEXT- DIY Jewelry cabinet 

DIY Jewelry Cabinet Part 4

This is the last part of my DIY Jewelry cabinet posts.  If you haven't yet, read the first 3 to see how I got this far and what is what, as it is explained in those posts, and I would rather not repeat!  Now, here is my step by step (or pretty close) on how I constructed this beast!

1)  I started by sanding down the rough ends of the wood I purchased as well as the long pieces that I will use for the cross pieces.  I drilled holes in the cross pieces (this is where the cabinet/drawer pulls will go).
2)  Because the pieces were cut to my measurements, I didn't have to do much measuring here.  I used the "L" brackets to hold all 4 pieces together to build a sort of frame.  I used 2 per corner on the inside of the frame.



3)  After the frame was built, I attached the door to make sure it fit properly, apparently the wood was ever so slightly bowed in a couple spots, so I just moved the "L" brackets a bit and screwed them back down.
 After I had the door on and fitting to the frame, I took the door off.
4) Measuring where I wanted the inside cross pieces to go, I marked them on my frame and screwed in screws from the outside to the inside.  The screws went through the ends of the cross pieces to hold them in place.


5)  I painted 4 drawers from an existing jewelry box to use and used them as a visual template as to how I would implement them into my current project.  The result was a kind of cobbled together piece that is better viewed than explained.  Basically, I used a piece of wood which I cut to the length of the inside of my cabinet and the drawers were to go under it.  For spacers between the drawers, I caulked pieces of left over wood that I used as cross pieces.  Confused yet?  Look at the photo!  I then drilled deep enough holes to fit plastic shelf brackets into the frame for the shelf to sit on.
6) At a few points between other parts of the project, I cleaned and painted all of my cabinet/drawer knobs and the door hardware.

 7)  The cabinet is more or less ready to put together now!  Now comes the staining, painting and clear coating.
8)  With cut open trash bags laying on my kitchen floor as a makeshift tarp of sorts, I applied 2 coats of stain to the cabinet frame, cross pieces and shelf.  After the stain had a night to dry, I clear coated it for protection and shine.
9)  The cabinet door received 3-4 coats of the white latex paint over the course of a couple days.
10)  After all was dry, I caulked the earring and ring holders to the back side of the cabinet door. I painted an extra piece of the cross piece wood teal and added and bunch of cup hooks to it and  caulked that to the inside of the door as well.   I also painted a little mirror I had to match the color scheme and added that to the inside of the door.  I let the door set flat for a couple days to let the calk cure so it wouldn't slide around.
11)  Once the door pieces had time to dry/cure, I put the hardware back on the cabinet along with a hasp to lock it if I want and added the Eiffel Tower decal... still unsure about that, but it looked too plain. I may get a thin mirror to replace it, we shall see.  I then added the door to the cabinet.

12)  I screwed in all of the drawer/cabinet knobs as well as many cup hooks.  I also added a spinning hook thing which was re purposed from the same jewelry cabinet I took the drawers from.

13)  I screwed the door back on to the cabinet, testing the fit and making a couple adjustments.
14)  I screwed in two "L" brackets with the top edge and one hole sticking out from the top of the cabinet to be used as the hangers for the cabinet.
15)  I had to wait for the back piece and it was still in my mom's garage, so it was a couple day wait time and I wanted to get it done!  But, once I got it cut and painted (3 coats of white paint)  I was able to nail it to the back side of the cabinet.




DONE!  Finally!!  It was a pain in the butt to get it onto the wall because for some reason one side the hook kept tearing the wall, so I had to move it to another wall, not where I wanted it, but it works. I got it all filled and wouldn't you know, it's FULL!  Now to go back through and do a little spring cleaning of my jewelry to make more room.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Home made laundry soap- powder

I am continuously looking for common household products that I can make on my own.  I have been wanting to try making my own laundry soap for a while now.  Since I seem to have the bar-to-liquid soap making down, I decided to try laundry soap.  It seems like it's so expensive to buy it!  I usually buy the CHEAP stuff which is almost always Purex on sale for about $3 for "32 loads" size.  I however, over-do it.  I use about one full cap for each load, as opposed to the recommended 1/3 to 1/2 cap.  Granted, I use a commercial machine which holds more, but still,  I think this might be a mental thing?  Never mind that,  I do like Purex though, and it is fairly inexpensive as well.  But, can I make something just as effective for cheaper?  Instead of starting out with a liquid, I decided to try a powder version, even though I don't really care for powder detergent as it seemed to be easier and cost me less work and time.  There are many recipes online for laundry soap, but here's the version I went with.

**What you need**
     +Super washing soda (I found Arm &Hammer brand)
      + Borax (20 mule team Borax)
      +1 bar of Fels-Naptha soap.
     +Grater and/or food processor
      +Container to store your soap in.

**How to**
    +Grate 1 bar of Fels-Naptha soap into a bowl
I grated the soap with the smaller hole side of the grater.  You can also use a food processor.  I have a small food processor for light-duty small jobs, I tried this after cutting the soap into small chunks with no luck.  I did however put the grated soap into the processor to make it into smaller pieces.  I don't think this is really necessary though.
    +Add 1 cup of borax to bowl
    +Add 1 cup of super washing soda to bowl
    + Mix using a spoon.
I tried mixing with my hands first, but had a small cut, which it irritated.

That's all, pretty easy!  Store it in a container with a lid so it doesn't collect moisture.  Also, its a good idea to tape shit or transfer your Borax into a sealed container as moisture in the air will cause it to harden.

**To Use**
This is what I did, I think you could probably just add your soap as you would normally.  I don't use powder, so I wanted to let it disburse in the water a bit before adding the clothing.
Start washer with water, let fill about 3-4 inches deep.
Measure 1-2 tablespoons and sprinkle into wash water
Add clothing and close lid, let finish wash cycle.

Now, I searched and read all things about home made laundry soap making.  There are many different recipes, but most of them contain something similar to what I have listed.

**Where to find the ingredients**
All the products I found in the laundry aisle at Meijer.  I have read that a lot of people have trouble finding the Super Washing Soda.  They sell it at Meijer and it can also be purchased online from what I understand.
All of the ingredients have been used for many many years.  I know that both the Borax and Fels-Naptha have been around for 100+ years.  If it's been around that long, I'd say it is a pretty trust worthy product.
The super washing soda and borax were in the section where you also find laundry additives such as wash boosters, stain removers, oxi clean, etc and conveniently right next to one another.
The Fels-Naptha was a little harder to find.  It was actually with a small section of body and hand soaps in the same aisle, near the dish soap.  I found it next to soaps such as Kirk's Castillo soap and those pumice soaps like Lava.

**What are these ingredients?**
 These ingredients are nice for the environmentally conscious or those with skin irritant allergies.  Both the Borax and Super washing soda are natural.
Borax is also called sodium tetraborate and is naturally found in dry lake beds.  It has many household uses and in this recipe used as a laundry booster and odor remover. Read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borax
Super washing soda is also called sodium bicarbonate or soda ash and is also a natural, mined element. This is used as a water softener and booster as well.  Read more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Washing_soda
Fels-Naptha is a laundry stain remover soap that has been around more than 100 years.  It is also used to treat poison ivy/oak.

** Cost (approximation)**
Washing Soda 55 oz- $3
Borax 76oz-$3.25
Fels Naptha Bar- $1.10
 Total                   $7.35

You won't be using all of either powders, so this is an overall start up cost.
Borax, approx 1/9th of the box- Cost: $0.33
Washing soda, approx 1/6th of the box- Cost: $0.54
Fels-Naptha bar, whole bar- Cost: $1.10
Total                                                 $1.97


**Yield per batch**

This will make approximately 3 1/2 cups.
Depending on size of load and how much you use will determine how many loads you will get from this.
"Recommended" amount is:
     + 1 Tablespoon per load
     + 2 Tablespoons for larger or heavily soiled regular loads
For me, I tend to over-do it, thinking the more you use, the better.  So I used about 3-4 Tablespoons in a commercial washing machine that holds about 1 1/2 average loads of laundry.
Based on a 2 Tablespoon per batch measure, you would get about:
     +28 loads per batch, 7 cents per load!



I am going to compare this to my personal usage of laundry soap, where 1 bottle of "32 load" size will yield me about 10 loads and the home made yields me about 14-19 loads.
I will then compare based on the listed load size.

**My personal usage comparison
If items are purchased at full price:
Tide liquid 32 load size- approx. $6/ $0.60 per load, $48 per year
Purex liquid- approx $4/ $0.33 per load, $32 per year
Home made powder- 3 1/2 cups approx $2/ $0.14 per load, $12 per year

                                           +++Savings: at least $0.19- $0.36 per load, $20-$36 per year, up to 75%+++

On average, I do about 1 1/2 loads of laundry per week (which is equal to about 3 loads regular).  At this rate, I do about 80 (or 160 regular loads) or so loads per year!

**Recommended usage comparison, based on small load
Tide liquid 32 load size- $6/ $0.19 per load/$30 per year
Purex liquid- $4/$0.13 per load/ $20 per year
Home made powder- $0.04 per load/ $6.40 per year

Based on a 3 load per week usage/160 loads per year approx:
                                              +++Savings:  $0.09- $0.15 per load/ $13.60-$23.60 per year, up to 79%+++                                 


**How well does it work?**

There are many factors to consider, but I will share my experience to give an idea.
*I don't smoke or work in a place that make my clothing smell.
* I also don't perspire much or seem to stain my clothing very much, so I don't really need anything heavy duty.
*I also have fairly good city water which is NOT softened.
*I used a commercial grade washer, which holds a larger amount, about 1 1/2 regular load.
* I washed approx 3 pair of jeans, 6 shirts, 1 sweater, 2 pair of pajamas and about 4 days worth of socks, panties and bras
* I had one shirt with a fairly large smear of white deodorant on the arm pit, which had sat and caked-on.  Other than that, no clothes had stains or pungent odors.
*I washed in warm water.

The Fels-Naptha has a heavy odor, you can smell it through the package.  I don't mind the smell, but can see how some would be put off by it.  This smell is about what your clothes will smell like coming out of the washer, but will dissipate after drying with a couple dryer sheets.

*This soap does not produce many suds at all, this doesn't mean it isn't cleaning.  Most soap products contain sulfates which are foaming agents and are not needed to clean things, but help the cleaners in soaps.

*The shirt with the deodorant set-on came out clear with absolutely no trace of stain or deodorant smell.
*Clothes all seemed to be cleaned and have no odd Fels-Naptha smell.

**Overall, I like this soap and will make more.  I plan to try liquid version next time.  This may be a permanent replacement for store bought laundry detergent!

Sunday, January 15, 2012

Food buying, storage and handling- part four

Part Four- food "scraps"


We have all been there- you have just a small amount of pasta, cereal, meat pieces, etc.  However, none is enough for a meal.  Or maybe you have made too much rice and don't want to eat stir fry again.  Produce is also something to go bad quick, creating a lot of waste.  So what do you do with those little bits?  How do you use up that wilted spinach or mushy banana?  Here are some ideas and tips to get the most out of your food "scraps".

*Make soup!
     Soup can be a great way to use up all your food scraps. You can put almost anything into soup and it is a good way to use up small amounts of things.  Here are some soup ideas:
     + Chop up the miserable looking carrots, the wilty spinach and throw in the rest of that can of corn from last night's dinner.
     +Use left over meat such as chicken or sausage from a prior meal.  Or, if you have maybe a small chicken breast in your freezer with some slight freezer burn, putting it into a soup with many other items will lessen the freezer burn taste.
     +Only have a half cup of rice or noodles, not enough for a big meal, but enough not to waste, you can put that into your soup too.
     +Don't hesitate to make use of left over mashed potatoes, adding them to soup will help thicken your soup.

*Make your own broths
No need to spend $1 or more on a small little can of broth when you can easily make your own without buying anything extra.

     +Don't throw out the chicken or turkey "bones".  You could also use meat pieces for this.  I like to add some onion to mine usually as well.  Add it to a pot with just enough water to cover.  Simmer until liquid has reduced by 1/4-1/3.  Remove the bones and discard.  Let broth cool.  You may want to refrigerate as some of the fat will come to the top, which you can skim off.  Put into freezer safe containers and label.
      +Veggie broth can be made a few different ways and with different vegetables.  This is a good way to use up vegetables that are getting mushy or wilted.  Or if you have left over fresh vegetables from making a soup or garnish tray and don't have plans to use them, this is a good way to make use of them.  I personally find that carrots, celery, onion and a few herbs are easy and flavorful.  You could also use cabbage or other greens, peppers, etc.  Add about 3 cups worth of mixed, diced vegetables to a large soup pot with water (about 6-8 cups) simmer until reduced by 1/4 to 1/3.  Using a colander with a bowl under to catch the broth, pour broth into colander.  You could also use a skimmer to scoop out the vegetables.  If you want a bit of a twist, you could let the pot cool slightly and put it into a blender and blend with the vegetables for a thicker broth.  Freeze in labeled containers.

*Left over pastas and rice

  Aside from soup, rice and pastas can be used in many different dishes in small amounts.  Here are some ideas:
      ~Dry rice and pasta
        +Designate a container to hold all of your "end of box" pastas.  As we use different pastas for different things, there is often a small amount left.  Add that small amount to the container.  Break up spaghetti, fettuchini, etc.  After a while, you'll have enough to make a whole meal.  Remember, most pasta is good for a few years.
         + Another option for small amounts of pasta is to add it to a salad or use it as a side for lunch or dinner for a single person.  Cook pasta, cool under running cold water and add to a leafy salad for a little something extra.  Or, cook and add a little butter and some seasoning or cheese for a side dish.
         + Rice can go a long way, so a little bit left could actually be enough for a meal.  Other than brown rice, most rice will keep forever.
        + Consider adding small amounts of rice to soups or meatloaf.

     ~Cooked rice and pasta
           +Left over plain pasta can easily be turned into a quick pasta salad.  Add your favorite dressing, some cheese, veggies etc.
            +Rice is very versatile and can be used in sides, main dishes, soups, etc.  It can also be used for a sweet treat.  Search recipes for rice pudding or eat in place of oatmeal, adding raisins, brown sugar and milk, etc.

*Cereal
     You get to the end of your cereal box and have less than you would need  make a bowl or there is a little bit that is on the verge of going stale and you don't want cereal.  Here are some ideas of what to do with it.

        + Eat it dry as a snack, maybe pack it in with lunch.
        + Make your own snack mix:  Add in other cereals, crackers, nuts, seeds, etc.
        + Make cereal bars, like rice crispy treats.  If you have enough or if you have a couple different cereals that would work well for these, you could combine them with marshmallow and butter to make your own cereal bars
        +  Some cereals work well in cookies and muffins.  Try allrecipes.com for ideas.

*Crackers and chips

       + Crush into crumbs and use as a breading for chicken or fish, etc.  I have found tortilla chip crumbs make an excellent breading for chicken.  You could really use probably any type though.
      + Crush flavored chips and crackers into more of a "powder" and add to your favorite dip sour cream to add a kick of flavor.
       +  Add to pasta salads for a bit of flavor

*Vegetables

    This category is pretty vague as there are many different vegetables that are good for different things.  Mainly remember most vegetables, while not best flavor and texture quality will be good even if wilted or starting to brown.  Watch for mold and brown spots or mush.  Cut the bad spots out.  Use your personal preference as to what vegetables you would like to use.
       +As stated above, great to add to soups or to make broth
      + Add to stir fry
       +Dice into small pieces and add to spaghetti sauce or other casseroles
       +Squashes are great for making breads and cakes.  Aside from zucchini bread, try using butternut squash in place of pumpkin.  Get creative.

*Fruits

      Like vegetables, fruits can go bad quickly as well.  They are also still edible even with rough spots.  Watch for brown spots, mold, mushy spots and cut them out.
       +Use fruits such as apples, peaches and pears as a topper for hot oatmeal.
       +Cook fruits until soft, mash and cool.  Eat like you would apple sauce.  You could also add it for flavor to oatmeal, yogurt, cottage cheese, etc.
       +Use in breads such as banana bread, apple bread etc.  You could get creative with other fruits as well.  Search for recipes that use the fruit you have.

*Sauces and Condiments
   
    There is a condiment for everything, so naturally we all seem to have 20 open bottles of this and that.  Sometimes it is hard to used up all of something.
        + Consider making your own marinades by mixing similar dressings and sauces.
        + Stretch your BBQ sauce by adding some ketchup, Worchesershire, honey, brown sugar, and mustard.
        + Experiment with alternatives to stir fry sauce or meatloaf ingredients with items you will find among your condiments.
        + Make pasta salad to use up little bits of salad dressing, mayo, mustard.
        +Use left over spaghetti, pizza or marinara sauces  for dipping grilled cheese sandwiches, topping garlic toast


*Misc.
     +Visit recipe web sites such as allrecipes.com.  You have an option of listing ingredients you have on hand and it will come up with various things you can make with those items.
     +Plan consecutive day meals so that you can use part of your left overs without eating the same meal.  Such as making a large amount of chicken and rice.  You can have chicken tacos one day and chicken with rice soup the next.
      +Left overs and "end of bag/box" things are a good way to experiment with trying new things and coming up with new dishes.  If you are using the last bits of things that would otherwise maybe not get eaten, it is a little less of a "lost" feeling if your creations don't come out as planned.
   
   
       

Thursday, January 12, 2012

Reusable cleaning wipes

I love the convenience of cleaning wipes such as Clorox or Lysol wipes.  It sure beats finding a rag and a spray cleaner or using paper towels, that just go to waste to clean up my home.  However, I don't love all the trash they produce and the cost, if I can't get them on sale/ with a coupon can get pricey.  So, I decided to make my own.  This time, I didn't research prior, and just went with what I thought would work.  Here is how I did it.  I also went back AFTER I made them and did a little searching and found some other ways.  What's great is you can use your favorite pre-made liquid cleaner or make your own.  I think next time I will try and make my own less chemical-ly cleaner.  Depending what cleaner you use and what material you end up using for your wipes, this can save you a lot or a little money.  Overall, it is better for the environment though, so you have that going for you!

*Things you will need:
     +a container, I used a baby wipe container I already had
     +bottle of your favorite cleaner
     +2 yards of flannel (white)
     +cardboard to trace your "pattern" on to
     +scissors
     +water

*How To:

1)  Trace the bottom of your wipes container onto cardboard (you could use paper)

2)  Fold the cardboard over so your pattern is double width, cut out pattern.
3)  Using your pattern as a guide, cut out squares of flannel.  I suggest using a total of 2 yards of flannel, which should make about 40 wipes.  I am unsure of the width of the flannel when you buy it, but all in the store I went to (JoAnn fabrics) were the same width.

4)   I cut the flannel out THEN laundered it.  I did this because I wanted it to fit nicely inside the box without bunching around the edges.  When you launder it, they pieces shrink slightly making them fit perfectly.
5)   Fold each "sheet" in half, so that it fits in the container.  Stack into two piles, about 20 pieces per stacks.


6)    Add 1 cup of cleaner to bottom of container and 1/2 cup water (the cleaner I used was a little strong, so I diluted it.

7)    Add one stack of sheets into the container, squish down so they soak up the liquid.
8)  Add another 1 cup of cleaner and 1/2 cup water, stack second half of sheets on top.
9)  Squish your sheets down and/or lightly shake the container (lid closed) to help disburse the liquid.

10)  If needed, add a little more cleaner and water.  You don't want a ton of liquid swimming at the bottom, but a little is fine.
11) Label your container so you know it isn't really baby wipes!
12) Get cleaning :)

After you have used the wipes, rinse in warm water and hang to dry.  Launder with hot bleach water, no need to dry, just put back into the box and add a little more cleaner.
Make sure if you decide to switch cleaner, that you use up all of your cloths and launder them and wash out the container to prevent a chemical reaction.

**Cost:
Flannel was about $6 per yard at JoAnn Fabrics, however, I had a 50% off coupon.  They offer these quite often.  I only bought 1 yard, but to fill the box, I would buy two yards.
Container was free as it was a pre- used baby wipes container.
Cleaner was Spic & Span antibacterial cleaner I bought at Dollar Tree for $1

Normally, I have two open containers of wipes.  One for bathroom and one for kitchen.  I go through approx 1 per month  and a half or so for each room.  These wipes normally cost between $2 and $4 for a 35 count container of wipes.  I usually buy these on sale, but sometimes can't get them on sale.  Per year, if I buy the cheaper wipes at $2 each, I end up spending about $32.  Considering that one bottle of cleaner will last for two tubs, I will spend about $8 per month and a half.

**Total, $6 for fabric and $8 for cleaner, for one year it will be costing me about $14.  If I were to use my own cleaning solution made from things I already have, this could potentially be much lower or nearly free.

**Savings: $18 or more
This isn't a lot of money, but also remember, it creates less waste and can be customized to your personal cleaner preference.

*Other ideas:

     +Instead of using flannel, you could use old cut up shirts, towels, or wash cloths.
     +If you want disposable home made wipes, cut a roll of paper towel in half, put your cleaning solution in the container and add half roll of towels.  Let soak a few minutes, remove inner paper tube and pull wipes from center, much like pre-made wipes.  You could maybe use a pre-used large wipes container for this.
     +Consider making two containers of wipes so you never run out while the others are being washed, or if you like a certain cleaner for one area and another type for another area of your home.
     +Instead of a baby wipes container, consider using a large zip lock or similar container with a lid.
     +You could also not fold the wipes, but throw them into larger, wide mouth container with cleaner and just pulling them out as you need.

**Recipes for cleaning solution I found:

 3 cups water  
1/2 cup vinegar 3 good squirts of Dr. Bronner’s baby-mild liquid castile soap
 about 10 drops tea tree essential oil.



mix two tablespoons of white distilled vinegar and one teaspoon of borax.

 Add 1 cup of hot water and stir until the borax is dissolved. 
Let this mixture cool a few minutes
Add 1/4 cup of castile soap OR 1/8 cup of liquid dishwashing detergent.







Baby Wipes- not just for baby's bottoms

Baby wipes are good for much more than wiping your baby's bottom.  Not only for baby's and kids either!
There are many disposable personal wipes of different types in stores.  Some for babies, some marketed for wiping up kid messes, make up removers, skin cleansing, hygienic wipes, etc.  So, why waste money on a different wipe for everything.  I have found that, for most things, baby wipes are the way to go.  They are gentle enough for a baby's skin, so why not kids and adults as well? They are large, thick and soft moist cloths  and are much cheaper than most other wipes.  They come in unscented and hypoallergenic for people who may have irritations.  You can also find them made of organic materials.  Here is a list of things they work good for and a price comparison to similar products.

Makeup Remover:
 Almost every day, I apply makeup.  I am one of those who feel "naked" without it.  I have found that washing makeup off with soap can get messy and irritate my eyes.  The next best thing?  Facial cleansing cloths and eye makeup removers.  However, these wipes are expensive at about 20 cents a wipe, are small and are very specific to being a facial wipe.  I prefer baby wipes for makeup removal.  They wipe away makeup easily and leave my skin feeling refreshed.
Personal Cleansing cloths:
Another product I see on the market are "personal" cleansing cloths.  The ones you find usually near the toilet paper, basically an adult baby wipe.  These too are fairly expensive, yet less expensive than makeup removal wipes at about 10 cents a wipe.  They tend to dry out quick if you don't use them often, rendering them useless.  Baby wipes, naturally would work well for this.  Unlike most personal cleansing cloths however, they are not flushable.
Kid's Flushable wipes:
There are basically baby wipes targeted to kids so they can jack up the price as well.
Other uses:
Baby wipes work well for quick spills, face wipes, wet naps (think of eating chicken wings with no wet naps) and other uses.

Cost comparison:
This cost comparison is based on a quick search on Amanzon.com
Huggies/ Pampers baby wipes-   $0.03 to $0.04 cents per wipe
Facial cleansing/ makeup removal wipes (Neutrogena, Ponds, Noxema) -   $0.16 to $0.20 per wipe
Personal Cleansing wipes (Cottonelle, Charmin, Wet Ones)- $0.06 to $0.10 cents per wipe.
On average, you'd save 50% or more.

Monday, January 9, 2012

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

Originally from weightwatchers.com, this gumbo is more like a thick hearty soup.  It is simple and healthy.  Since discovering it about 8 years ago, I have made it many times and more than likely altered it in accordance with my personal preference as well as ingredients I can find.  The original recipe called for a bag of frozen "gumbo style" vegetables, but to this day I can't seem to find such a thing, so I came up with an alternative.  This soup is unlike the traditional gumbo as it is quick and easy, doesn't take a pretty penny to make or take all day to cook.  There is also no rice, yet it is still a very hearty and filling meal.

Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

1/2 lb of chicken breast diced
1/2 lb of rope style sausage such as smoked sausage- chicken or turkey variety diced
1 cup of chicken broth
1 large can of crushed tomatoes
3 tablespoons flour
1 bag of frozen vegetables
     *I use "Mexican style" that includes broccoli, cauliflower, corn and peppers
1 1/2 cups frozen cut okra
garlic- fresh about one clove, minced or 1/2 teaspoon garlic power
onion- fresh about 1/4 cup worth, diced or 1 teaspoon onion powder
pepper
salt
chili powder, cumin, red pepper flakes or hot sauce if you desire a spicy gumbo

Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauce pan or dutch oven over medium high heat.  Add chicken breast and garlic and onion, saute until chicken turns white.  Add sausage and continue cooking until both chicken and sausage are browned, reduce heat slightly if needed so meat doesn't burn.  Sprinkle in salt, pepper and spice (if spicy is desired). Stir together and add frozen vegetables and chicken broth, scraping the bottom as you go.  Once mixture starts to bubble, sprinkle in flour and mix.  Let heat until the liquid starts to thicken.  Add crushed tomatoes, stir and cook until heated throughout about 10 minutes.

Cost:
For this recipe, which makes a total of about 8 cups of soup, here is a breakdown of approximate cost.

Chicken breast-  on sale for about $2/lb, so around $1
Sausage- on sale for about $2 for a 14 oz package, often there are coupons as well, so about $1
Chicken broth- store brand 80cents a can, use 1 cup, so about 50 cents
Crushed tomatoes- $1.25 on sale
Mexican Vegetables- $1.25
Okra- $1.50/ bag, you use about 1/3 of the bag, so 50 cents worth
Total- About $8.80 to buy the packages you need, about $5.50 for the soup.
          This would cost about $.69 per cup.

Sunday, January 8, 2012

The Soap Saga- Turning bar soap into liquid soap

For those who know me, know I am a bit of a hygiene-a-phobic.  So, naturally I have soap at every sink and back up soap, so I am never without.  I also am a bit of a soap prude.  I CAN NOT stand bar soap!  It sits there on the sink, collecting hair, dust, pooling in its own goop, many hands touch it, then you wash with it?  I know people have used it for years, but I just can't seem to bring myself to accept bar soap.  But still, I do have a few random bars that seem to float around in my supply.  Some were gifts as others I was "paid" to take from the store (as with the Olay bar soaps I will mention later, I had a $4 coupon off of a 2 pack bar that was about $3).  Anyhow, I have been thinking of ways to make things I use every day to cut costs.  Then I thought- bar soap... I won't use it, sure I can give it away, but if i can make use of it then I will.  So, I searched yahoo (I don't usually Google) and found a few and went with one.  Here is my saga.  It is indeed pretty lengthy and it was somewhat of a battle, a battle I refused to lose against soap!  Some good and some bad results.
*** For best results, use a soap that is a "dry/hard soap".  Steer clear of soaps that are called "moisturizing" or "beauty bar".  The soap that works best is one that if you squeeze the corner of the bar between 2 fingers, it wont mush down.  When grated, it looks like small flakes or grated Parmesan cheese (the powdery cheese that comes with a plastic shaker top usually). ***

First, I will tell you I read through most all the comments before tackling this project here: http://www.savvyhousekeeping.com/how-to-turn-a-bar-of-soap-into-liquid-hand-soap/comment-page-5/#comment-150221  I also commented in that blog with the basics, but here is my more in depth tutorial/results.


*To make liquid soap, you need just a few things:

Measuring cups (1 cup size is the one I found most useful)
Bars of soap (the type matters BIG TIME, read for more info)
Water
Large pot (you will need it to hold 10+ cups)
Glycerin
Bottles (to put soap in)
Funnel

Here is what (in a nutshell) the previously mentioned blog said to do-

*Mix 1 cup of grated soap (they used Yardley brand) with 10 cups of water and one tablespoon of glycerin.  Heat in large pan over low/med heat until soap flakes are melted. Let cool and our into bottle.  Just like that.  Well, its not QUITE that easy from my experience.

So, being determined and reading a zillion comments and questions, I took all the information and decided to try myself.
I had what I needed except for glycerin.  It can be found in either the health care section of most stores.  I have heard near either vitamins or first aid.  It can also be found at craft stores.  I ended up getting a bottle for about $3 at JoAnn fabrics with the cake decorating supplies.  Basically it is an edible liquid that is derived from plants.  It helps add softness and elasticity to things.  If you can't find or don't have glycerin, it isn't an absolute must.


****Now, for the instructions and results of each type****

Neutrogena transparent facial bar: this is a glycerin based facial bar.
+What I did:
     Grated the whole bar of soap, about 1 1/2 cups, added it to 8 cups of water to the pan, heated on medium until melted.
+How it turned out:
     The soap was very watery even after letting it sit and even after refrigerating.  I will use this soap in the shower, so the runny-ness isn't of huge concern.
+Overall:
     Not a good/ Ideal soap.
+What I would do differently:
     If I were to make a glycerin based liquid, I would add only 2-3 cups of water to the bar.




Olay Luscious Embrace Moisturizing Body Bar: this is a hybrid regular soap and moisturizing soap.
+ What I did:
     Grated one bar about 1 1/2 cups of soap, added it to 10 cups of water and 1 TBS of glycerin and heated on medium until melted.  I then put it in the refrigerator to cool and help speed up the process of turning into a "gel".
+How it turned out:
     Soap stayed runny- looking like milk.  I added another full grated bar, still did not improve.
+Overall:
     Not a good/ Ideal soap.  However, I did use it in addition to other soaps, keep reading for more info.
+What I would do differently:
     Not use a "moisturizing bar" again.



Generic soap that came from a bath gift set: This was a hard soap that grated up like the aforementioned Parmesan cheese.
+What I did
     Grated the bar of soap, it ended up being just under 1 cup.  I added it to the pan with 5 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of glycerin.  I heated it until melted then transferred to refrigerator.  Within about 20 minutes, I had a thick gel.  I used a hand mixer and mixed it up, then added 2 cups of water and re-heated.  I repeated this process until I had about 10 cups of soap total.
+How it turned out:
      The consistency is somewhat snot-like.  I tried it out as soap on my hands.  It doesn't suds much, but seems to work well, just very drying.  I ended up adding about 1/3 cup of extra virgin olive oil to the whole batch, which improved the drying.


+What I would do differently:
     As I don't know anything about this soap I used, it is hard to say for sure.




At this point, I gave in and bought a bar of Yardley soap and a 3 pack of Jergens brand soap at the Dollar Tree for $1 a piece.

Yardley Oatmeal and almond soap:  This was the one that was used in the previous blog, so I decided to use it.
+What I did:
     I grated 1/2 of the bar and added it to 4 cups of the Olay soap-water that didn't set properly.  I heated as with the others, I didn't add any glycerin.  After soap was melted, I put it in a cold water bath in the sink, it started to thicken.  I grated and added the remaining of the bar and added a couple more cups of the Olay soap water.  .I mixed with hand held mixer and it became a very nice thick, frothy "goop".  I continued to add a little water at a time, all together about 6 cups.
+How it turned out:
     I could have added more water and had it be a more runny soap, but the consistency was that of a nice whipped frosting, thick and creamy, not snotty like the prior soap.  It smells great and I decided to keep it thick and use it as a body wash as it had the added moisturizers.  This combination also doesn't seem to produce suds.
+Overall:
    Wonderful as a body wash!  Would probably not be ideal as a regular hand soap.
+What I would do differently:
    I think this combination is great for body wash.  In the future, I think I will use these same soaps again, using 1/2 bar of Olay and 1 bar of Yardley and kind of playing with the mixture to find a good consistent formula.
No photos of this one, as I was in a rush.

Hand made natural oil based soap: 2 types and 2 results
I had one bar of olive oil based soap, and another with a few different oils.  Both are very similar to the glycerin soap as far as melting and consistency.  I processed them both differently and got totally different results.  The olive oil soap was not originally a soap that produced suds, while the other produced some.

+What I did:
    The olive oil soap I grated (a little over one cup) and added about 5 cups of water and melted, stirring frequently.
     The other oil soap I grated (about 1 1/2 cups) and added just 2 cups of water and melted.  This soap didn't seem to want to fully melt.  I took it off the heat and  looked something like honey with lumps.  I used my hand mixer with an egg whisk attachment and mixed.
+How it turned out:
     The olive oil soap was more or less useless as it didn't seem to thicken at all.
     The other oil soap turned out alright. While mixing, the lumps dissipated and the mixture became opaque and frothy.  It wasn't a thick consistency, but more like most store bought liquid soaps.
+Overall:
     Soaps of this nature (oil based and probably glycerin) can be turned into liquid, but do not make as much and used very little added liquid.  Making the soap this way seems to work pretty good.
+What I would do differently:
     I would use only 1 bar of soap and 2 cups of water, adding more as needed for this type of soap.

***MUST read tips and suggestions***


+Do not turn your heat up past medium.  It is tempting to get it to melt quicker, but soap that is especially sudsy will start to bubble up and keep foaming.  If it happens, remove from heat.
+Stir occasionally while soap it on the stove, make sure all chunks are melted.
+As soap sets, some will be thick and gel like, while other parts will be liquid.  Mix first with a spoon, this solves most of the problem, if still not consistent, use hand mixer.
+Avoid over mixing (hand mixer) soaps that are extra foamy, it will create too much foam and you won't be very productive on getting lumps out.
+Wait for any mixture to fully cool before putting into bottles, as the consistency changes as it sets.
+Grate or chop soap first, it will melt faster and easier
+Some soap doesn't need added glycerin.  You can try without first, add if soap isn't smooth enough.  You could also use olive oil.
+Start with less water at first and add more as needed to create desired consistency.
+Make sure to have enough containers on hand for your soaps and label them.  Some look good enough to eat!

Saturday, January 7, 2012

Food buying, storage and handling- part three

Part Three- thawing foods


Proper thawing/defrosting of foods is very important to ensure food's flavor and quality.  Also, more importantly,  to ensure food safety and reducing the chance of bacteria growth and illness. Proper packaging of foods helps ensure they retain their best flavor and quality.  Watch for ice crystals or freezer burn on your frozen items.  While it is still safe to eat, the flavor may be off.  Proper thawing of raw meats and seafood items are particularly important.  This guide will tell you the basic types of thawing for meats, soups/sauces and baked goods, as well as what items that do not freeze well or change flavor/texture once they have been frozen.

*Three basic ways to thaw your frozen foods
     +In the refrigerator
     +In the microwave
     +Under running cold water or in a bath of cool water that is replaced every 30 min for no more than 2 hrs

*Thawing meat
     + USDA recommends thawing meat (all types and sizes) in a refrigerator that maintains a temperature of 40 degrees F or lower.
     + For small cuts of meat, such as a pork chop, hamburger patty or steak, thawing with the "cold water" method is another accepted way.  Be sure to replace cool water every half hour and do not exceed 2 hours.
     +NEVER defrost at room temperature, in hot water or in a cool water bath that is NOT replaces every half hour.
     + Defrosting in the microwave is an easy and efficient way to defrost small amounts as well, however, because the low power of the defrost starts the cooking process and heats the outer parts of the meat to above 40 degrees, meat defrosted in the microwave should be cooked immediately after defrosting.
     + It is also acceptable to cook small cuts of meat from a frozen state, being sure that the internal temperature reaches that which is recommended for each type of meat.
     +Keep meat wrapped and on a plate or other contained which can capture any liquid that may leak during thawing.
     +For large items such as whole birds or roasts, thawing in the refrigerator is the way to go.
     +Turkey, Chicken and other birds(whole): 24 hours per every 4 lbs.  Can be kept in refrigerator for up to 2 days once thawed before cooking.
     + Once thawed, make sure to cook to recommended internal temperature for the type of meat you are cooking.  Take note that sometimes items may not be fully thawed inside, so they may take longer to cook than normal.  It is advised to use a meat thermometer and when checking the internal temperature, make sure to insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat in the middle, such as the center of a chicken breast or center of a roast.
          ~Internal temperatures should reach(degrees F):
                     Chicken and Turkey- 165
                     Ground Beef (hamburger)- 160
                     Pork and Beef- 145
                     Ham- 140

*Thawing soups and sauces

Soups and sauces are easily thawed and re cooked.  They can be heated at full power in the microwave or over a low/medium heat on the stove top.
     + Place container of soup/sauce (if frozen in a microwavable container) with lid loosened in microwave and heat  on half or full power.  Taking out and stirring every minute or two until heated through.
     +If heating on stove top, remove soup/sauce to sauce pan.  Run container under water to loosen if needed to remove help remove from container.
      + Heat on stove top over a low/medium heat, stirring occasionally until heated through.

*Thawing baked goods

Cookies and cakes are easily frozen and thaw fast.  For best results, freeze cakes in slices or cup cakes for quick grab-and-go snacks.  Whole cakes also freeze well but can take longer to thaw.  Frosted items can also be frozen and usually thaw well, but depending on the type of frosting, the frosting may taste different when thawed.
     + Thaw baked goods at room temperature on a counter top.  Most items thaw in an hour or two.
     +For cookies and cupcakes/muffins, defrosting in the microwave is a quick alternative.  Heat in increments  of 10 seconds until thawed.  Add more time if you would like it warmed.  Be careful not to over heat, as they may become hard.  This method does not work well for frosted items.
     +Thaw items that have dairy in them in the refrigerator.


*Thawing information of other items

     +Thawing vegetables isn't recommended.  Vegetables can go from freezer to cooking, with no middle step.  Thawing vegetables will often effect the taste and texture.
     +Cheese, milk and yogurt can be frozen, however they also may change texture.  It depends on the type of product you have.  Some factors that contribute are fat content, moisture content and other additives.  It is suggested to freeze and thaw a small amount of the item to determine if it is suitable.  Generally cheese and milk will be fine to use in sauces or added as ingredients into other dishes, but not as desirable when used alone after being frozen.
     +Casseroles and meatloaves can be thawed and heated again.  Depending on what is in the dish, it may change the flavor or texture.  Thaw and reheat in the microwave at 50% power for 2-3 minutes for every 6 ounces of food.  Can also be thawed in the microwave in 1-2 days.
   

*Freezing and thawing NO-NOs

     +Don't freeze mayo or items with mayo
     +Hard cooked eggs turn rubbery, tomatoes get mushy, potatoes discolor and can change texture.  Not recommended for freezing
     +Don't thaw meat at room temp
     +Freezing, thawing then freezing again is okay, however, make sure it never reaches a temp above 40 degrees while thawed.  Also, refreezing can diminish the flavor and quality of foods.


More information and details on thawing foods, visit:
http://www.fsis.usda.gov/Fact_Sheets/Big_Thaw/index.asp
and
http://www.weightwatchers.com/util/art/index_art.aspx?tabnum=1&art_id=31571&sc=4350

Friday, January 6, 2012

Food buying, storage and handling- part two

Part two- proper storing of foods


Knowing how and where to store your different food items is key to maximizing your food and your grocery dollar.  This part will cover basic food storage including what type of packaging to store your food in, where to store your food for best longevity and how to keep track of what you have so you are less likely to waste your food.  Buying fresh items during sales and in the peak growing season (produce) is a great way to save money. Also, growing your own food can bring in a lot of fresh produce which can be used fresh, canned or frozen.   Most foods can be frozen, which helps to keep your grocery bill lower by using items you have frozen throughout the year.

*Freezing foods

    +What kind of packaging and how to package it.

          ~Meats should be wrapped in smaller portions for easier defrosting and use.  Unless you are freezing a whole bird, a large roast, etc.  It is ideal to package meats such as hamburger or pork chops in small portions.      Freezer paper, freezer grade zip top plastic bags and heavy foil are recommended for freezing meats.  Be sure to squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing bags. Double wrapping helps prevent freezer burn and wasted, poor tasting meat.  Wrap in foil or other wrap and then place in zip top bag.   Most meats will freeze for 2-6 months depending on the meat.  This is the time that is considered suitable to maintain flavor.

          ~ Fresh fruits can be frozen.  Most fresh fruits, if properly frozen and stored can last for 8-12 months frozen.  It is suggested you place berries on a pan in a single layer, then freeze.  Once frozen, transfer to air tight freezer bag or bowl with lid.  Other fruits such as peaches, apples and pineapple may be frozen as well, but require a little more prep work.  See the following detailed explanation on freezing fruits.   http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/foodnut/09331.html

          ~Fresh vegetables can be frozen, but first must be blanched. Frozen vegetables are good for 12-18 months frozen.   Blanching is a quick dip in boiling water, it is a method used to keep the enzymes in fresh vegetables from maturing, causing the food to brown or rot. For more information on blanching, see the following link:  http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/foodnut/09330.html   Freeze blanched and dried vegetables in meal- sized portions in freezer zip top bags or containers.  See listed link for specific details.

          ~Left overs.  Most left overs can be frozen.  Items that freeze well are items that have a sauce or liquid such as soups, casseroles, pasta sauce, etc.  Allow food to cool and place in single serve containers.  Plastic containers with a tight fitting lid.  Allow 1/2" space on top of food in container.  You may also use freezer bags.  Items with mayonnaise do not freeze well.  See link for more info.  http://blog.nola.com/judywalker/2008/06/how_to_freeze_leftover_foods.html

          ~Cookies,  cakes and breads freeze well.  Let cool and place in zip top bag.  I suggest cakes and breads be made in cup cake form for easy individual servings.  Or, cut breads and cakes before freezing.  Good idea for always having some on hand.  Simply remove a couple pieces and pop in microwave for a few seconds to defrost.  Most taste good up to about 2 months.

     +How to store items in freezer

          ~Make sure all items are properly wrapped.
          ~Rotate old and new items so you are using up your frozen foods before they go bad.
          ~ It is a good idea to label your foods with dates.  Most freezer storage bags have a write on area.  Write the item and date and if you prefer the amount (such as 1lb of burger, 1 cup of broth, etc).  Use tape and marker to label containers.
          ~Try to arrange like items together so they are easier to find.
          ~Fill freezer at least 3/4 full.  The fuller the freezer, the better it keeps things frozen and the more efficiently they are kept.  Defrost regularly if needed
          ~Inventory your freezer regularly so you get the most out of your food.  Consider making a meal out of items that are nearing their best freezer-life.
       
*Refrigerating foods

     Most fresh produce, meats, dairy, condiments and beverages do best in the refrigerator.  Be sure to check stilltasty.com to see how long to keep specific items.  Here are some tips to get the best out of the food in your fridge:

     +Never store eggs in the door.  The opening and closing causes temperature change and eggs should be kept at a constant temperature.  Ideally, keep them in their original carton near the back of the fridge.
     +Keep all foods covered with a lid, foil or plastic wrap so the food doesn't dry out, soil other foods with smell, leech flavors from other foods or get contaminated.
     + Use your fridge's bins for what they are intended.  Example- use the crisper drawer for your fruits and veggies, or the butter keeper in the door for butter.
     + When storing fresh meat, keep wrapped while in the refrigerator.  Consider keeping it wrapped in a grocery store plastic bag or placing package in a container so if it leaks, it will not contaminate other foods.
     + Rotate your stock.  Pull close to outdated items toward the front to be used up before going bad.
     +  If keeping onions and garlic in the refrigerator, keep uncut onions/garlic wrapped in a bag to keep from leeching out smells onto other foods.

     +  Keep like items grouped together.  Cheeses, fruits, snacks, beverages, etc.
     +keep  a box of open baking soda in your refrigerator to help keep food fresh
     +Clean fridge regularly.  Make sure to clean walls, drawers, racks and in door.
   
*Pantry/Cupboard storage

     + boxed, jarred, canned and bagged foods store best in pantries.  Kept in a relatively cool and dark place,  these items will stay fresh for a long time.  Items in jars exposed to light can change color and flavor, keep stored behind doors for best results.
   
     +Boxed and bagged foods
          ~Pastas, grains, flour,sugar store well opened or unopened in their original packaging.  Also consider transferring to a plastic or glass container for easy storage.  Avoid storing in areas that can get damp as this may ruin your foods.  Tuck a bay leaf in a bag of flour or the corner of a cabinet to keep pests away.
          ~Cereal, crackers, chips and pretzels will keep longer without going stale if you fold the top of the bag over a couple times and secure.  "chip clips" are ideal, also consider using a clothes pin, large paper clip or tape to keep items closed.  Also keep in dry area.
          ~Don't throw out a small little bit of pasta, cereal, chips, etc.  Consider designating a container for "left overs".  One for pastas, one for snack items.  Many people will use all but the last little bit.  Instead of throwing the last part out, round up all of your "almost gone" bags and make your own snack mix or mix the last bits of a couple types of pasta into a container and keep in your cupboard for last minute meals.
          ~Keep taller items in back and shorter in front so you can keep track of what you have.

     +Canned items

          ~Keep like items together for easy searching.  Many cans are the same sizes, so it makes it hard to find things.
          ~Watch for badly dented cans.  While usually it is okay to eat from dented cans, if you don't know when the dent happened, it can mean many "bad things" though.  Deformed or dented cans can cause tiny cracks in the can which can cause bacteria to form.  It can also mean the food inside wasn't canned properly or that bacteria is growing inside.
          ~Store away from excessive heat and avoid freezing, as items inside may expand when frozen and also may change flavor.

*Other Miscellany
     +  Depending on how much room you have, try to store like items together so they are easier to find.  Keep canned soups together, vegetables, fruits, etc.  Designate a shelf or cupboard for (each)sweet snacks, salty snacks, cereals, pastas, pre-packaged meals, etc.
     +Keep all items for baking together for ease of use while making baked goods.
     + Small cabinets usually near or over stoves are good for storing spices, seasoning packets, drink mixes, etc.
     +Rotate your food in fridge, cupboards, freezer routinely.
     +Clean out foods regularly.  Once every couple months, go through your pantry/cabinets to organize and rotate your food.  Go through fridge more frequently as one spoiled item can cause mold and bacteria to grow in your fridge, contaminating other foods.
     +Consider labeling foods when you open then with a "use by" date so you don't forget to use it while its still good or question how long it has been opened.
     +Keep food storage items on hand for new foods you plan to store.
          ~Freezer bags in small and large sizes.
          ~Re-use plastic containers with lids.  Consider re-using cottage cheese, butter and kool whip containers, etc.
          ~clips for bags of chips, crackers, cereal
          ~heavy duty foil, plastic wrap
          ~masking or freezer tape for labeling and marker
     +Make sure to keep breads closed tightly to ensure they don't stale.  Always check for mold on bread, even if before expiration date.
     +Be sure to clean up dropped crumbs and spills as they may attract fruit flies or other pests which may get into your food, making it unsafe to eat.